Santa Maria di Leuca greeted us in the morning with a warm sea and the lively shouts of local kids swimming before the heat of the day set in. The town itself is dotted with striking villas, many in a Moorish-inspired style, their ornate shapes and colors giving the waterfront a unique charm.

We had originally planned to linger a bit longer, but our route—and the need to drop off Jonas near Catania by the end of the week—meant we had to leave earlier than hoped. The forecast showed the wind along the Calabrian coast soon shifting west, which would put it straight on our nose. Even more challenging would be the accompanying swell, which makes life on board far less pleasant.

So, after stocking up on supplies, a snorkel in one of the coastal caves, and another good night’s sleep, we set off for a 36-hour sail along the Calabrian coast, through the Strait of Messina, and onward to Milazzo in Sicily—leaving behind a Santa Maria buzzing with Italian tourists.

The conditions could not have been kinder, and our decision to depart early was clearly the right one. The passage was largely uneventful—which, on a sailboat, is always a blessing—just endless blue water under blue skies.

Still, sailing along the Calabrian coast always carries a certain tension. There are countless small fishing boats, and tragically, the ever-present possibility of encountering a drifting wreck full of desperate people fleeing hardship. It would be one of the hardest situations imaginable: witnessing such drama yet being unable to help without endangering ourselves. Akuna is simply not equipped to save so many souls.

Thankfully, the sea remained calm, and by late lunch we were crossing the Strait of Messina. That passage never fails to excite, with powerful currents funneling through the narrow channel.

And so here we are: within a week we’ve crossed the Adriatic and the Ionian, and now we find ourselves in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

But before we settle in, we’ll have to say goodbye to Jonas. He’s been a wonderful companion to the boys and a huge help during night watches. I like to think we gave him an “amazing” holiday: days spent locked inside a floating, moving garden shed, capped off with an anchorage in front of an oil refinery. Hard to beat… or maybe not!