Our days in Mindelo on São Vicente were a truly interesting experience. This place didn’t open up to me right away, and if you had asked me after the first couple of days whether I’d recommend coming here, I probably would have told you not to put it on your bucket list.

Just this August, the island suffered terrible floods caused by Storm Erin, which destroyed much of the infrastructure—including the sewage system. As a result, the water in the marina had a brownish tint, and the smell that came with it didn’t make things easier.

People initially seemed very reserved, and arriving here with 90 other boats full of sailors worrying about their own little first-world problems felt strange, especially knowing that many locals had just lost the basic roof over their heads.
The island itself is barren and arid, with no natural water supply beyond what the desalination plant produces. (Though at some point, someone must have had big dreams—you can still find a derelict waterpark inland!)

But perhaps part of the struggle was within myself. After a few days, the place slowly warmed up to me. Maybe I eased into this different rhythm of life, maybe my European unease with the unfamiliar faded, allowing me to open up and go with the vibe.

And then we visited the local design museum—a small but beautifully curated exhibition of traditional crafts from São Vicente—and that’s when the island truly got me.

According to Neli, the nearby island of Santo Antão is breathtakingly beautiful and our trip swimming with turtles was an absolute highlight for the boys. The little village of São Pedro benefits greatly from these visits, as they provide much-needed income.

People at the local markets were warm and helpful. The boys even came back with little bracelets gifted to them by a local vendor—apparently after chatting about their trick scooters. I’m not entirely sure of the whole story, as they were out by themselves near the marina, but they returned with full hearts and beaming smiles.

So much so, that they also joined in later on that day for a short Capoeira session when the local group showed up at the pier.

Little by little, Cape Verde found its way into my heart. And if you asked me now whether you should visit, I’d say: not for the food, and not if you’re looking for a resort-style holiday. But if you’re after an authentic experience—one that slows your inner clock and gives you, every now and then, a gentle hint of Africa—then yes, do explore.

I think that if I cross the Atlantic a third time, this place will be a stopover again.

And so our time here comes to an end today, Friday the 21st, as we set off at 12:00 local time for our sail to Grenada.
The wind forecast is light and so are the waves—a good start for our crew on what will likely be a 14-day trip. We expect a bit of chaos at the beginning, as all the boats leave this tiny harbour at once… but winning the race for us has nothing to do with crossing the finish line first. For this leg, a win means arriving with the boat intact and our hearts full of good memories. That is our goal, and I’m hopeful we’ll achieve at least part of it.