We optimistically started out with just one engine running — mostly because we believed in wind. The wind, however, did not believe in us. When it finally swung straight onto the nose, we surrendered and fired up engine number two.

From that moment on, our trusty “donkeys” have been steadily propelling us toward the Galápagos.

With just 130 nautical miles to go, we expect to arrive in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal Island in the early evening — a full day earlier than we had anticipated when we left.

As it is Sunday, we have been assigned a check-in slot for Monday at 9:00 a.m. I must admit I feel slightly nervous, as this may prove to be one of the most demanding check-ins of our journey — perhaps only rivaled by Australia and Fiji.

The process of gaining permission to sail into the Galápagos Islands is quite involved. An agent must obtain an “Autógrafo” — essentially an official permit. To secure this, you need a fumigation certificate and a “clean hull” inspection carried out by a diver no more than 48 hours before departing Panama.

Thankfully, Mark had already given the hull a thorough cleaning in the San Blas, and after a night in the fresh waters of Lake Gatún, even the last stubborn remnants disappeared.

Inside the boat, everything must also be spotless: clean bilges and no restricted food items such as fresh berries, certain vegetables, fresh cheeses, and the like.

All in all, it requires considerable effort — financially as well, as it certainly doesn’t come cheaply. These strict measures have discouraged some sailors from visiting the Galápagos altogether. But having been here 13 years ago — under similarly rigorous rules and significant expense — we knew we had to make it happen. It was one of the great highlights of our previous voyage, and I wanted the boys to experience it too.

There is, however, one final issue to resolve before we enter the harbour: we must part ways with our rather pungent guests.

Akuna has turned into a sanctuary for red-footed boobies — or, less romantically put, a floating guano island. The entire family has claimed the bow as their own. They seem thoroughly unimpressed by our presence and happily remain perched there all day. Judging by their rich diet of flying fish and squid, the aroma surrounding our boat is nothing short of…breathtaking.

How we are going to remove the evidence of their residency remains a mystery — apart from persuading the squatters to relocate. The boys have attempted to approach them, like – really get close as in „touching“, although the birds briefly take flight, they always return, delighted with their chosen refuge.

I must admit, though, watching them glide effortlessly alongside the boat is magnificent, and their constant bickering provides excellent entertainment.

And last but not least – as I am writing this at 4:00am in the morning – I sit under an amazing sky full of stars on an almost flat sea… can’t beat this for an office!